It came after two of the sport's biggest stars, Andre Ondra and Janja Garnbret, fell just as they appeared ready to make their brilliance tell.

Both eventual winners established provisional leads after running out of time, and it appeared to be a question of how many of the more favoured later climbers would come past them.

But in humid conditions that made climbing tricky, nobody did.

Max Rudigier, the third last climber, fell before reaching the final section, meaning that Schubert was guaranteed at least a place on the podium.

Next up was Ondra, the prodigious 24-year-old Czech professional who is the only athlete to have won world titles - and World Cup titles - in both the bouldering and lead events.

Ondra looked in command all the way up to the point where he suddenly disconnected from the climb at the same point as Rudigier.

It seemed all was set for the semi-final winner, Alex Megos, to clean up, but his initial dazzling smile as he entered the climbing area was soon replaced by a look of baffled bemusement as an awkward attempt at a jump across on the first section saw him dangling from his belayed rope.

So gold went to the Austrian - with Ondra taking silver in front of Rudiger.

Megos plummeted to eighth and last.

Ondra, who arrived in what he felt was less than ideal form having spent time outdoor rock climbing, said: "Conditions were probably the worst I've ever seen in a Lead World Cup.

"The humidity increased this evening by so much that when I had to lean in with it my forearm was sweating so much I couldn't do the move any more.

"It was bumpy up to that point, but I felt pretty pleased with my climbing - somehow  I managed to compose myself."

Slovenia's 18-year-old Garnbret, who won the lead and combined World Cup titles last year, arrived in the Italian resort having accrued three consecutive series victories this season, but she fell away just as she appeared poised for a final push to victory.

Another early fall from Anak Verhoeven of Belgium also helped Kim, and the South Korean climber finished clear of silver medallist Anne-Sophie Koller of Switzerland with Garnbret having to settle for bronze.