Nonaka of Japan placed second as sport climbing made its debut at her home Olympics at Tokyo 2020, and finished third in last week's women's boulder World Cup also held at the Pioneer Park venue in the American city.

She placed first in Group B of qualifying with five tops and five zones, a feat matched by Germany's Afra Hönig in Group A.

The United States' world champion Natalia Grossman has won the last two boulder World Cup events, and eased into the semi-finals with five tops and five zones, albeit with a higher number of attempts than Hönig and Nonaka.

Oriane Bertone of France, Ayala Kerem of Israel and Franziska Sterrer of Austria also finished joint-third with five tops and five zones.

Fellow home favourites Brooke Raboutou, Kyle Cullen, and Cloe Coscoy join Grossman in the semi-finals.

Japan’s Dohi Keita and South Korea's Lee Do-hyun won Group A and Group B respectively in men's boulder qualifying, both scoring five tops and five zones.

Men's combined world champion Yannick Flohé of Germany, South Korea's Chon Jong-won and Japan's Rei Kawamata placed joint third.

The Salt Lake City World Cup is due to conclude tomorrow with the boulder semi-finals and finals.