Vimal  Sankar

It all started with that Ronaldinho free-kick.

As the ball dipped past a flailing David Seaman in Brazil’s quarter-final win against England in the 2002 FIFA World Cup, I flung my pint of Stella Artois in sheer joy and disbelief.

I wish that statement was true. Well, part of it is. The beer bit is for dramatic effect as I was only eight years old.

But my old man might have spilled his, as the two of us were awestruck and celebrating wildly.

The tournament in Japan and South Korea was the beginning of my love story with the Brazilian national team and the beautiful game itself.

The relationship has had its ups and downs. At times, it was emotionally taxing. Like the night when the Germans showed their ruthlessness during the 2014 World Cup semi-final.

I was in my second year of university then. The morning after, my father and I disconnected from the real world to drown our sorrows. There were a few drinks in both our hands unlike 2002.

Growing up listening to stories of the great Garrincha and Zico, it was only a matter of time before I was sold on the samba way of life. The dance, music, culture, and of course football.

Fans sing during the Copa Libertadores quarter-final first leg between Brazilian side Fluminense FC and Paraguayan outfit Club Olimpia ©ITG
Fans sing during the Copa Libertadores quarter-final first leg between Brazilian side Fluminense FC and Paraguayan outfit Club Olimpia ©ITG

Coming from a small village in Malappuram district in Kerala, India, football was always a part of the conversation. And there were two primary colours for most of us from god’s own country - the yellow of Brazil and the light blue of Argentina.

For international media and the world, the World Cup in Qatar was when the South American frenzy of a Malayalee became evident.

Even before the tournament, the flex boards of Neymar, Lionel Messi, and Cristiano Ronaldo on the Cherupuzha river in Kozhikode became a huge hit. So much that FIFA posted the photo out from its official Twitter handle or X as it’s known now.

When the tournament began, Qatar, and the Middle East in general, where there is a significant Malayalee population, were expected to come out in big numbers. And they did not disappoint.

Sevens or seven-a-side is another unique aspect of Malayalee football culture that explains the fandom around the game in my state.

It is so popular that imports from West Africa often feature in this passionate version of the game. For those interested, a movie titled "Sudani from Nigeria", captures the range of emotions of sevens football better than I ever will.

Now, I could go on, but I think I have made my point. So, when insidethegames gave me an opportunity to fly to Brazil for the International School Sport Federation U15 Gymnasiade 2023, there was only one thing in mind. Go for a game at the Estádio Maracanã.

After two days of competition, the plan was confirmed. We were a group of 30, who all had the same dream - watch a game of football at the magical Maracanã. And so, we began our journey to 90 minutes of elation.

After getting our tickets to the Copa Libertadores quarter-final first leg between Brazilian side Fluminense FC and Paraguayan outfit Club Olimpia, we started our journey from the Olympic Park in Rio.

Fans of Brazil, Argentina and Portugal wave flags on the Cherupuzha river in Kozhikode before Qatar 2022 ©Getty Images
Fans of Brazil, Argentina and Portugal wave flags on the Cherupuzha river in Kozhikode before Qatar 2022 ©Getty Images

As we neared the entrance of the stadium, we could spot thousands of men, women, and children in the famous maroon and green stripes walking towards the entrance.

The chants from the stadium were getting louder and louder. A few minutes later, I stepped foot inside a packed Maracanã with more than 60,000 people singing on top of their lungs.

I had to pinch myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming.

The locals and the fans of Fluminense recognised that we were outsiders. But they welcomed us, cheered with us, and made us happy. One thing that I noticed about the people in this country is their smile. Just like the one on Ronaldinho’s face after the goal against Seaman.

It was 2002 all over again. As Fluminense scored their first goal through André with two minutes to go in the first half, beers were launched all around. Drenched in lager, we joined the fantastic home crowd in celebrating.

The ingenuity and flair in those feints, flicks, and backheels before the goal is another reason why South American football is special for me. It’s poetry in motion. There is freedom and more importantly, happiness.

As the game went on, the chants became deafening. Not a single person inside the stadium was sitting down. At the 59th minute, Germán Cano, a 35-year-old striker from Argentina, gave the home fans a two-goal cushion to spark more wild celebrations.

A statue of Hilderaldo Bellini, the first captain of Brazil to lift the World Cup, at the entrance of Estádio Maracanã ©ITG
A statue of Hilderaldo Bellini, the first captain of Brazil to lift the World Cup, at the entrance of Estádio Maracanã ©ITG

Every time I think this is the loudest they can get, the Fluminense faithful prove me wrong. A special mention to the away end, who despite losing the game, was making their voice heard.

This for me is the power of football. This is why we love the game despite its countless problems and toxicity.

I was heartbroken when some of my favourite players, including Ronaldinho, openly supported the unapologetically misogynistic, racist, homophobic, and far-right politician Jair Bolsonaro, who was pipped by Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, who led Rio de Janeiro's historic bid to host the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Speaking to some locals, I understood that some of these footballers are equally adored and hated at the same time.

It was painful to see the iconic yellow jersey used by far-right rioters as they stormed the country's Government buildings in January after Lula was sworn in.

Despite all this, I am a believer. If 30 people - from various backgrounds, countries, and age - who have never met a week ago can come together to enjoy a football game miles away from home, then there is something to it.

Maybe it’s the magic of Maracanã.

I leave this country as one of your own. Obrigado, Brazil. Next stop: La Bombonera (hopefully).